The Gap Between the Brief and the Formula
You have a brief in hand: "Young, clean, slightly sweet, unisex, everyday; EDT; target price such-and-such; competitor such-and-such." Then a blank formula sheet. The gap between the two is the least described place in perfumery. This article closes that gap: it puts into writing the steps from the brief to the first mod, what goes on in a perfumer's head.
The aim of the first mod is not to find the right perfume. Its aim is to turn the brief into something that can be smelled and to ask the right question: "Is this the direction?" The first mod carries the question, not the answer; that is why it must be quick, simple and open to discussion.
We covered writing a brief in a separate article; here we assume the brief is ready.
Translating the Brief into Technical Decisions
Every adjective in the brief corresponds to a technical decision. The translation table works like this.
| Phrase in the brief | Technical equivalent | Effect on the formula |
|---|---|---|
| "Clean, fresh" | White musk + citrus or aldehydic opening | Musk base 10–20%; citrus or aldehyde top note |
| "Slightly sweet" | Low-dose vanillin/ethyl maltol or a fruity ester | Sweet component 1–3%; an accent, not gourmand |
| "Unisex, everyday" | Not floral-dominant, not wood-heavy; transparent structure | Hedione, Iso E Super, light musks; no dense oriental |
| "EDT, 3–5 hours" | 8–12% concentration; medium longevity | Base 25–35%; room for volatile top notes |
| "Target cost X TL/kg" | Limit on expensive naturals and captive molecules | Low natural ratio; synthetic skeleton, naturals for accent |
| "Competitor: this product" | Family and skeleton analysis of the reference scent | Same family, different signature; not a copy |
When the translation is finished you have a fragrance family, a concentration range, a cost ceiling and three "must-have" adjectives. These four things are the frame of the first mod.
Building the Skeleton: Three Layers, Ten Raw Materials
The first mod is a skeleton formula: one or two representatives in each layer, at most ten raw materials in total. The aim is to smell the direction, not to finish the scent.
- Choose the base (30–40% of the total)
One or two bases according to the brief's demand for longevity and character: if it wants clean, white musk + light woody; if it wants warm, amber + musk. In the first mod the base is represented by one or two molecules.
- Choose the heart (30–40%)
The centre of the family: for floral, Hedione + a representative of a floral accord; for woody, Iso E Super + cedarwood; for sweet, a vanillin dilution. If a ready accord exists, use it; in the first mod an accord is not built from scratch.
- Choose the opening (15–25%)
The brief's "first impression" adjective comes from here: citrus, aldehyde, green or fruity. One or two raw materials in the first mod.
- Set the signature (2–10%)
A single element that will set this scent apart from the others: an overdose, an unexpected pair (vetiver + milk), a natural accent. A first mod without a signature smells like a category average.
- Set rough ratios, weigh, rest
Write the ratios in round numbers (10, 20, 30), prepare 10 grams of concentrate, rest it overnight, take it into alcohol at the concentration in the brief.
- Evaluate against the brief
Strip and skin; 10 minutes, 1 hour, 4 hours. One note for each adjective: "clean: yes; slightly sweet: too much; unisex: yes; longevity: short." These notes are the recipe for the second mod.
From the First Mod to the Second: Sharpening the Question
When the first mod is smelled, one of two outcomes emerges: the direction is right and the details are wrong; or the direction is wrong. The two lead down different paths.
If the direction is right, the mod system begins: one variable per mod, record, evaluation. The second mod usually fixes the most obvious shortcoming (most often longevity or the harshness of the opening), the third sharpens the signature, the ones after settle the balance. The number of raw materials grows slowly; the ten raw materials of the first mod may be twenty-five by the tenth mod.
If the direction is wrong, do not try to fix the first mod; build a new skeleton. Re-read the brief: most of the time what is wrong is not the skeleton but the mistranslation of one of the brief's adjectives. A customer who said "clean" may have meant "ozonic", not "soapy". In that case the second skeleton is a different reading of the same brief and gets a new series number.
In both cases, whether or not to show the customer the first mod is a decision. An experienced customer can be shown two skeletons (A and B) together as a question of direction; showing an unfinished scent to an inexperienced customer pulls the project in the wrong direction.
Frequently Asked Questions
The most common questions about moving from the brief to the first mod.
How many raw materials should the first mod have?
If the brief names a competitor product, should I copy it?
Is using a ready accord in the first mod cheating?
Longevity came out low in the first mod; is that a problem?
Should I take cost into account in the first mod?
Should I show the customer the first mod?
What should I do if the adjectives in the brief contradict one another?
How many mods pass between the first mod and production?
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