How to Build a Lavender Accord: Linalool–Linalyl Acetate Formula

There are three reasons. Consistency: natural lavender oil varies with harvest, region and year; an accord is the same every time. Control: if you do not want the camphoraceous, medicinal undertone of the oil, you simply leave it out of the accord. Application: in demanding bases such as soap, detergent and candles, natural oil is costly or does not hold up; an accord can be designed for those bases.

Lavender's chemistry also lends itself to accord building: two molecules carry most of the scent.

Linalyl acetate and linalool make up two-thirds of the accord and are also the dominant components of real lavender oil. Linalyl acetate gives the sweet, fruity, rounded side; linalool the fresh, slightly woody florality. Their ratio sets the character of the accord: more acetate makes the scent sweeter and finer, more linalool makes it fresher.

Lavandin oil adds a natural signature. Lavandin is the more productive, more camphoraceous hybrid of lavender; it is economical, and even a small level brings life to the synthetic skeleton.

Eucalyptol, camphor and terpinen-4-ol are lavender's aromatic, medicinal face. Their doses are critical: too little and the accord stays flat and "soapy"; too much and it smells of medicine.

Dihydromyrcenol gives a clean, modern freshness; much of the lavender effect in masculine fragrances is boosted with this molecule. Coumarin adds hay and tonka warmth to the dry-down; the pairing of lavender and coumarin is the foundation of the fougère family. Geranyl acetate gives floral softness, caryophyllene a woody-spicy ground, and cis-3-hexenol the green freshness of lavender just cut from the field.

1. Build the pair

   Combine linalyl acetate and linalool. On a blotter this pair already suggests lavender; everything else is fine-tuning.

2. Add the aromatic face

   Add eucalyptol, camphor and terpinen-4-ol. Camphor is a solid; make sure it has dissolved completely in the mixture.

3. Bring in the natural oil

   Add the lavandin oil and smell. You will notice the accord suddenly smelling more real.

4. Soften and deepen

   Add geranyl acetate, caryophyllene and the coumarin you dissolved beforehand.

5. Adjust the freshness

   Add dihydromyrcenol and cis-3-hexenol last. Cis-3-hexenol is very powerful; proceed drop by drop from a dilution.

6. Rest briefly, compare with real oil

   Rest it for a day or two. Put a blotter of real lavender oil beside it; seeing the difference tells you what to raise and what to lower.

Classic fougère lavender: Raise the coumarin, add a small dose of a moss effect and geranium. The character of shaving soap and classic men's cologne emerges.

Clean, modern lavender: Raise dihydromyrcenol, reduce camphor and eucalyptol, add musk. You get a fresh, soft lavender that recalls clean laundry; ideal for detergents and softeners.

Herbal, aromatic lavender: Raise lavandin oil and terpinen-4-ol, add a rosemary or sage effect. This is the character closest to nature, slightly medicinal.

Sweet lavender: Raise linalyl acetate and combine with vanilla and tonka. The lavender-vanilla pairing appears frequently in today's gourmand fragrances.

Lavender is known for its calming effect and is traditionally used for relaxation; this accord, however, is a perfumery raw material. Do not make health or therapeutic claims for your product.